The Sacred Instructions
Courtesy of Go9 Racing, home of The Buttered Cat Hyper Drive.
- Standard disclaimer: This shite could maim you for life or even
kill you!!! You could end up in a bloody heap, moaning like Jimmy Swaggart
in a cheap motel room. DON'T DO IT. I may be totally misleading you. Run
like hell in the other direction!!! I wouldn't even subject Hord's chicken
to riding a Hawk equipped like this!!! I feel much better all ready.
I did this whole job with very little coaching except on where to place
the hole. The rest was by trial and error, but was rather easy. I am not
an enginerd or a mechanic, I'm just a country biologist. It took me maybe
9 hours. Enjoy!
- Parts youíll need: Parts to complete this project can be
bought at a local hot rod shop, or ordered. If you order out, it's hard
to send the bad shite back. I strongly urge you to drive to East Freaking
Egypt to get your parts from someone who knows what they are talking about.
If they ask you if "you want fries with that", run like hell.
Disassemble your old system and take in the hose and bolts if there is
- 36"+ of #3 stainless steel brake hose (Goodridge or other)
- Two 10mm, 1.25 thread single banjo bolts.
- One 45 degree banjo hose end.
- One straight banjo hose end.
- Lots of your favorite flavor of DOT brake fluid (Martha Stewart
hint: The left over fluid makes tasty salad dressing. YUM!!! ;-) please
note smiley face).
- Clear vinyl tubing (4" long) that can be warmed up and force
fit over the hose.
- A 3/8, 9mm, whatever drill bit. I can't remember, must be the Alzheimer's
kickin' in. Remember, you can always make a small hole bigger, but the
other way doesn't work without a TIG welder.
- Tin snips or your sig-o's favorite, expensive scissors.
- Brains and some intuitive skill.
- Put your bike up on a stand and disassemble your old system if you
havenít already. Keep everything clean as possible. Chunks of dust
can put a serious crimp in your ride, not to mention your helmet. Place
the old hose in a antiseptic plastic bag for safe keeping. You too can
become Jim Davis someday.
- Take off the wheel (you decide which one, this is where the intuitive
skill comes in handy)
Back to Go9 ...
- Drill your hole on the upper side of the swing arm, 2.5 - 3 cm in
front of the front torque link bolt (buy a service manual), in the middle
of the swing arm, not rakishly off to one side. Use a small round file
or counter sink bit to round off the edges.
- Pull out the black, rectangular plug, gasket whatever on the chain
side of the swing arm just behind the pivot point. Punch a hole in the
middle of it using a 5 mm punch or an exacto knife. Round holes don't tear
- Heat up 2î of the clear tubing with a hair dryer and force
it over the new brake line. This will be a bitch, but this forms a gasket
in the drilled swing arm hole and keeps the line from abrading.
- Feed the SS line through the drilled hole till you can see it in
the rectangular ìwindowî. Pull the line through till it seems
to be in the right place and force the line and clear vinyl tube into the
drilled hole, this should be tight. Put the line through the gasket and
put it back in place.
- Danger Will Robinson!!! Danger Will Robinson!!! Intuitive skill
needed here!!! Take the SS line end (either one, youíll do this
on both), place the nut over the line (the right way), and spread the braided
steel out in a wider (dime size) circle. Snip back the wire about 5mm and
place the olive on the line and screw in the banjo (45 degree on the rear).
Please ask an adult to help you with this if you have problems. Torque
it tight, but don't over tighten. Do the same on the other end.
- Route the line so it wonít screw anything up and tighten
down the banjo bolts to the specified torque (buy a torque wrench and a
service manual). Fill the brakes with fluid and bleed them. TEST THE
BRAKES HARD, FOR GODíS SAKE, BEFORE YOU GO OUT ON THE ROAD!!!! The
rear brake will be a bit touchier than before, but hell, you donít
use it anyway.
- Rip off that UGLY chain guard and sell it to a newbie.